Masters Auto Sales Used Car Warranty

Ford Thunderbird Super Coupe Buyer's Guide

A primer on what to know when buying a 1989 to 1995 Ford Thunderbird Super Coupe (or Cougar XR7).

SC Buyers Guide

Introduction ........................................................................................................................................... 1

In Person ................................................................................................................................................ 2

Engine Bay ............................................................................................................................................ 2

Inside ...................................................................................................................................................... 3

The Seller Said ...................................................................................................................................... 5

Start Me Up .......................................................................................................................................... 5

Lo Rider ................................................................................................................................................. 6

Decisions...Decisions ...............................................................................................................................7

The High Mileage SC ............................................................................................................................ 8

Prices ...................................................................................................................................................... 8

Appendix ................................................................................................................................................ 9

Helpful Links ........................................................................................................................................... 9

Contributors ............................................................................................................................................ 9

Vehicle Survey Checklist for current condition

Introduction

This document is for the buyer that may not be familiar with the SC and is looking for hints, and tips as to any particular items that may be wise to note when considering purchase. It is not meant to provide general used car buying assistance and it assumes that a rookie SC buyer has basic automotive knowledge. Note that not all SCs came from the factory with similar equipment, features and options.

The Ford Thunderbird was restyled in 1989 and became slimmer in overall dimensions with a wheelbase nine inches longer than the previous model. Also new at that time was a fully independent rear suspension. Mercury's Cougar is similar, but with different appearance touches. Base and LX editions had a 3.8-liter V6 and 4-speed overdrive automatic.

Performance fans had a particularly tempting choice: a supercharged, intercooled variant of the V6 that pumped out 210 horsepower in the Super Coupe (SC), which featured dual exhausts, 16-inch tires, and 4-wheel anti-lock disc brakes. Four-wheel disc brakes came standard on the SC (optional on the LX).

This body style, known as MN12, ran thru 1997, with the SC ending in 1995. The major years of the SC represent two basic versions: 1989 ~ 1993 and 1994 ~ 1995.

"What are the hidden differences between the 94/95 SCs vs. the early model cars, besides the obvious exterior and interior changes? The late model cars received many tweaks by the 3.8L Engineers. The rods were improved, the heads were modified slightly, and the crank was altered. Numerous electronic components and sensors were changed, the EEC was updated, and the injectors were raised to 36# vs. 30# on the early model cars. The automatic transmission became "electronic" (4R70W vs. AOD); the manual transmission received slightly different ratios. The ABS unit had already changed to a different style in the 93 model year. The interior received driver and passenger side air bags, therefore eliminating the annoying gliding shoulder belts. The interior changes were obviously major. Over all, I think it is an improvement except for the seats. The early seats somehow feel better to me, even though the changes to them were minor. I especially like the 145-mph speedometer from the late model dash. Thankfully this is easily retrofitted to the early model instrument cluster in about 20 minutes. The exterior changes were definitely a some like em, some dont scenario.

The single major reason for the horsepower difference between the early and late model engines is the better internal porting and epoxied rotors on the 94/95 Eaton supercharger. Most everyone has seen the differences between the two and the rectangular opening on the rear of the late model unit is far larger than the oval opening on the early model units. Even though it is spun slower than the early model blowers, it makes the extra HP easily through enhanced airflow capability and increased adiabatic (heat handling) efficiency." Courtesy Bill Evanoff, SuperCoupePerformance.com

Many people find themselves using the Internet to hunt for an SC. This is a great way to window shop, but it can be important to remember that an online digital photo is a filter through which various details can be simultaneously magnified as well as masked. There is no substitute for a ' walk around' of a used vehicle by you or your broker.

Decide before visiting in person are you looking for a reliable daily-driver or a project?

In Person

During a first inspection, it is easy to overlook small paint defects, missing interior trim and malfunctioning lights and accessories. It can be a good idea to take your own photos so that you can study more closely at your leisure. Print out this document and bring a flashlight. Dont be shy when asking if you can come back to take another look.

Walk around the car and observe if it sits squarely. Is the gap between each tire and fender the same? Check the tires for wear and note the size (driver door sticker has stock tire data). Tires and wheels may have of course changed sizes...ask why.

Engine Bay

The hood release is inside the car, left of the driver seat on the side - pull to open. The safety catch is over the passenger side headlight, about a foot from the edge of the fender - raise the hold slightly, reach just inside and slide the release to your left to open. The hood when opened is supported by a pair of gas cylinders and it should stay open without your help. Caution. Dont get under the hood until you know it wont suddenly drop and try to close.

Check all three serpentine belts for wear. Check the belt tensioners for wear via the range gauges. Inspect the radiator, thermostat housing and hoses for leaks. Is the wiring intact or has it been opened up and left to suffer at any location? Note the data on the build tag on the front bulkhead, near the radiator to see if it matches the sticker inside the drivers door and the VIN tag at the windshields lower edge, driver side. Be sure to jot down the VIN code if you plan to run a CarFax check. Did the courtesy light under the hood work? Is the battery clean and securely mounted? Check the lower front edge of the battery for a wedge type clamp.

Look for broken or missing wiring retainer clips, wiring harness points that have been cut or left open and any grounding straps that may be disconnected (right front of engine to body is just one).

Check under the car for fluid leaks. Red is power steering and/or auto trans. Black is engine oil and/or brake fluid and green is coolant. The oil filter is located at the lower front of the engine (sideways). It is not easy to remove on some cars, especially with bad motor mounts, and it can be common to find oil right below it that may indicate a leak or just a messy oil change. Deteriorated mounts can also cause issues with power steering lines even a cracked oil pan. Rev and watch engine to see if it rocks. Check for low levels of auto trans, engine & power steering fluids (dip sticks for these auto trans dip stick is at left rear of engine) and coolant & brake fluid (viewable tanks). Is the auto trans TV cable grommet on the cable end that connects to the throttle body? Take note of any service stickers.

Check around the nose of the supercharger for fluid leaks. There is a seal behind the pulley that often leaks at higher mileage. If the supercharger is leaking, there will likely be a dark spot on the under-hood sound insulation blanket, directly above where the supercharger pulley resides. Factory pulley here is steel aluminum is aftermarket and perhaps a different size (up or down), which would modify the boost.

Inside

The interior is usually easy to check, with most wear showing on common friction points such as door grabs, seat bolsters, carpets, pedals, the shifter and steering wheel.

Note that the front seats will tilt forward without using the release on the rear. This gravity-activated release engages when the car is parked on a hill, as an example. There are two sets of seat belts for the front. The shoulder belt is activated when the key is turned to run, resulting in the upper end of the belt restraining system traveling across the upper inside door/body edge - the other is a manual lap belt. If the shoulder belts are released from their catch at the top, a warning light will be lit in the dash. With the key off and door opened, the shoulder belt mechanism will travel from the driving position to the open position at the front edge of the door/window - watch your neck when exiting the vehicle. The belt will not move again until the key is turned on. If the mechanisms move slowly and/or chatter, the internal glide track may need to be treated with silicone spray to speed and quiet movement.

The front seats have power for front-to-back and up/down travel as well as tilt of the entire seat. There are also button switches on the outside of each seat that pump up or deflate the lumbar and move the side bolsters in and out. Seat-back tilt is manual.

There are three sets of lap belts and two sets of shoulder belts in the rear. An optional w/leather 60-40 split rear seat allows either upper section to be released (pull the short straps at the top) and laid down allowing access into the trunk and/or room for lengthy items inside the car. The 1990 35th Anniversary SC has distinctive leather seats with grey pigskin insets and blue piping, front and rear.

If the battery is properly charged and connected, turning the key to accessory should provide power to the windows, seats, door locks, radio, powered antenna, powered mirrors, trunk release, and fuel door (not all cars, all years, will have all of these features). Lifting the console lid or opening the glove box at any time should activate a courtesy light in each location. Lifting the driver's door handle should activate courtesy lights on the inside rearview mirror, a light for the keyless entry keypad if installed, along with a ring around the door keyhole, lower inside courtesy lights on the back edge of both doors and in the sides of the upper body in the back.

Vehicle Maintenance Monitor (VMM) - The dash unit that mentions oil changes, coolant level etc. is a module that monitors fluids and helps tracks factory oil change intervals (3000 miles). This is just a reminder for the driver and has no effect on operation of the vehicle. If the indicator says NOW, see the owners manual for reset procedure. If any of the other indicators are lit, start by checking/trusting those levels under the hood before starting the engine.

Black tape on doors - Many older cars have suffered from deterioration of the black tape used by the factory on the post at the rear of the door on the outside of the car. Some owners replace the black tape, some repaint this area and some ignore it. Other than being a cosmetic issue, most consider it minor when buying a car.

A Firm Ride blinking light in the dash cluster indicates an issue with one or more of the electronically controlled shock actuators. You should hear a mild click when the switch in the center console is toggled on/off. Number of blinks indicates which corner may have an issue:

• Left rear (1 click/blink); Right rear (2); Right front (3); Left front (4)
• Frequently, cleaning the actuator contacts at the top of each shock is the solution.

Moonroof:

• Wind or water leaks? Inspect seal around glass and/or for plugged drains.
• The switch has two positions: 1.) Tilt up at rear. 2.) Slide roof open/closed.
• The sun shield will retract when the glass is opened, and move out within reach when the glass is closed. It must then be fully closed manually.

Headlights:

• Headlights flicker? Most likely needs a headlight switch.
• Headlight dimmer/auto off switches - (see below)
• Fog lights should work when headlights are on low beam. A switch that does not light up the On indicator is most likely dirty inside maybe burned out.

The Seller Said...

Noob noted: "...every SC you look at the seller always says these cars are rare."

The point? Not yet...smile and keep looking.

If the seller mentions head gaskets, understand that many cases of head gasket failure are due to incorrect modifications and/or poor maintenance. Think money...and remember to use the Internet, factory manuals, etc. for more information on this heavily discussed topic.

Bill Evanoff: "In my opinion, blown head gaskets are not a big issue at all. As long as the gaskets were replaced quickly after they blew out the repair should be fine. It is only if the car sat for a long time, and then repaired, where the new owner is likely to have problems with a spun bearing and/or other more serious issues."

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A word about rust. While any used vehicle can suffer from rust, a common problem on SCs from areas such as the East coast, goes like this (courtesy noob) "...for us NY peeps a quick look inside the rear wheel wells inside the lower skirt area shows if there is rot. Most hack owners would not yank the skirts to bondo the rot. Cant see it for 20 foot rule. Underneath the nose on the hood is a good spot to check for rot. Also, see if the front clip has been replaced in a possible accident - look for any old color under the hood - I think the VIN is there as well. 64R is an SC. Someone mentioned that LXs had different holes drilled on the inner lip of the front fenders vs. the SC."

An SC has three main computers that may or may not agree with what the seller claims in terms of car operation and condition:

1. Engine fuel, air & ignition management
   
2. ABS (anti-lock brakes)
   
3. Ride control

All three units are capable of providing feedback via warning lights on the dash and/or via codes using the factory diagnostic tap under the hood (EEC) or in the trunk (ABS). All three are also covered extensively in factory manuals and on Internet sites, forums, etc. Search on Ford EEC.

Ask or check for an owners manual. There is also a separate manual for the premium sound system. If the car doesn't come with either of these, pick up a set off eBay or use Internet forums & docs to learn. Youll want to know such things as how to set the clock in the radio, reset the VMM and how to use/adjust the headlight controls.

Is it real? Note that a genuine set of SC heads have SC cast into them. 1990 35th Anniversary models should have a tag on the radiator crossmember that says 35th.

Start Me Up

Turning the key to on should light up all indicators and warning lights in the dash gauge cluster, as well as the VMM (if installed) over the radio. There is a line of warning lights along the bottom of the cluster, as well as two in the tachometer, below the premium fuel warning text. The yellow up arrow is an upshift light and all SCs have this regardless of transmission type. In addition, you should hear chimes (and see a 'Door Ajar' dash light), which can include door open and key on. Test the power door locks using the switches on both doors.

When shutting down, there is a chime that sounds when the headlights are left on and/or when the key is left in the ignition with the driver's door opened. You may also hear ABS or fuel pump noise/chatter when turning the key on, which should go away

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quickly as the systems build and hold pressure. Now is a good time to test the tilt steering wheel mechanism - make sure it doesn't tilt unless the lever (right side) is pulled backwards.

Expect some early models to need you to apply the foot brake and have the car in Park or the clutch depressed before the starter will engage when you turn the key to start the engine. If the car starts and idles properly, all warning lights should go out (if the parking brake is applied a warning light will stay on). If the anti-lock or brake warning lights stay lit, take note and watch for other indications of brake related problems, as there is most likely a brake system issue. Again, think money

Once the engine starts, check the vacuum/boost, tach and oil pressure gauges for activity. Listen for any knocks, belt scream etc., keeping in mind that a distinctive high-pitched whine, particularly with the hood open, will be heard coming off the supercharger, which is normal unless pronounced, in which case such a sound could indicate excessive wear and/or damage.

Car should start and idle without intervention from you. If it takes more than one try to start, and/or if the engine stalls instead of idling, repairs could run from simple and free to complex and expensive. Same goes if the engine coughs when driving around.

Watch for warning lights and/or erratic tachometer. Changing spark plugs in an SC is considered a bothersome chore - this can lead to delayed replacement of both plugs and wires, which can then lead to poor running and performance. Without getting into the gory details, the list of things that can lead to a poorly running engine is not short.

Repairs should begin by reading engine codes, and tea leaves - tossing a few chicken bones never hurts as well.

Lo Rider

Driving the car should allow you to determine if basic systems such as lights, transmission, brakes and steering function with or without exhibiting trauma. Is the steering wheel oriented correctly? Does the steering feel loose, or tight at one point but not another? Are there any clunks, pops, or squeals when the steering wheel is turned from side to side? Does the car travel and brake in a straight line on a level road? Any scraping noise when the brakes are applied? Any warning lights lit or blinking in the dash? If the engine temperature gauge seems to ride low and/or move quickly at times, the usual culprit is a loose/dirty push-on connector at the sender, rear of the thermostat housing on the top of the motor.

Boost on a stock engine should be 10 to 12 lbs. and vacuum should be close to 20 in. Does the engine start on the first try and idle without needing to coax the throttle?

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Does it accelerate smoothly without missing? Does it build boost with confidence and shift without hesitation or missing a gear? Note any auto transmission or clutch slippage. Be sure to try reverse and of course dont forget to check the heater, defroster and AC controls and operation. Running the AC should also turn on the electric fan at the back of the radiator if not, and the AC compressor clutch won't stay engaged, the system could be in need of a recharge and/or repair. The switch for the rear window electric defroster will turn itself off when the heating element warms up.

When inspecting the body, look for rust, poor repairs and such high-mileage indicators as excessively worn door hinges. Do the doors sag or move if you lift on them or do they open/close with difficulty and don't seem to fit correctly in their openings?

Inspect the door seals for excessive wear or damage. Check under the nose and tail for damage to the skirts and any missing items such as chin spoiler or cooling diffuser pad at the front of the engine, going back over the front sway bar. Examine all glass for cracks and/or missing seals.

A wobbly inside rear view mirror is frequently due to a loose set screw that can be reached by removing the mirror and tightening the hex screw on the mount to the glass.

SCs came with different combinations of radio/tape deck and CD player. Be surprised if the radio makes sound in any of the earlier models. On JBL equipped models, the audio and sub-woofer amplifiers and 6" sub-woofer are in the trunk.

Open the trunk with the key and check the spare, jack etc. Note the condition of the trunk liners and the rubber gasket for the lid. Check for signs of any moisture. If you buy the car, ask the seller for the code if it came with the keyless entry option (this 5-digit code is also on a sticker inside the trunk lid). Use the code to test unlocking the drivers door...press 3 to unlock the passenger door and 5 to pop the trunk right after entering the unlock code. Pressing the two last buttons at the same time should lock the car doors. Test a key in both door locks. The ignition and doors should use the same key...different from the trunk key.

Decisions...Decisions

At this point, you should have collected many impressions about the car. This is a good time to clear your head and decide if you want to engage the owner in an extended conversation concerning specifics. If you are comfortable with your own ability and mechanical knowledge to enter into such a conversation, you no longer need advice on how to proceed. If you are not, take notes of what you've found and what the seller said - consider not asking too many questions during one visit and try to find time to think things over before you make a decision. Consider asking for opinions online, using forums, etc. If you do online for advice, be sure to also provide basics about the car, such as year and miles along with your notes and links to any photos. Keep it simple...just the facts - explain your motives, budget, time-line etc. And please remember, this guide does not cover buying used cars in general - you are expected to understand the basics of how a car operates and goes down the road.

In some scenarios, you may not have access to the owner, in which case you might have no one to provide information or answers to your questions (true or false). It may be wise to consider paying a mechanic to inspect the SC in question. A CarFax report can be a good investment as well. In some cases, you can hire a local broker to not only check the car out, but to handle price negotiation as well, as if they were buying the car for themselves.

The High Mileage SC

Bill Evanoff: "Getting a lower mileage car and paying more for it is ALWAYS a good decision compared to buying a high mile ragged out car that is very cheap. It is often very expensive to fix a Tbird SC, unless you do the work yourself - paying more for a good example is money well spent!"

Mike SCCOA: "High mileage (175k+), poorly maintained SC's typically will need just about everything replaced to have any confidence in them later on"

• Clutch & clutch master and slave cylinders
• Flywheel work & rebuilt transmission
• Replace engine motor mounts
• Rebuild the motor if replacing head gaskets
• Exhaust work including new catalytic convertors and o2 sensors
• New ABS master cylinder
• Wheel bearings
• Radiator
• New steering rack, suspension control arms and/or bushings (front & rear)
• New accessories (alt, p/s pump, a/c compressor)
• Not to mention the electronics, which can suffer separately or together, from bad or missing ground cables to faulty connections and/or cheap components.

Prices

These cars originally sold for between $20, 000 and $27, 000 new. Used prices, at time of this writing, seem to range from extremely low (less than $1k), to USD$10k and up. What you end up paying may well be more of a reflection of how badly you want a particular car rather than any 'market' trend. Basic price ranges from Consumer Guide online at this time are $600 ~ $2, 100.

Edmunds states that when buying from a private party, you can expect to pay:

• 1990 SC $743.00 ~ $1, 881.00
• 1995 SC $1, 980.00 ~ $3, 415.00 Western USA
• $1, 852.00 ~ $3, 195.00 in the East.

If a seller mentions such items as a recent motor or transmission overhaul, ask to see the receipts. As the new owner, you may have an issue and it can be nice when you can invoke a warranty on any work that has been done in the past.

When it comes to cars that have been customized/modified, most owners realize that they cant expect a buyer to provide a return on their original investment. $40, 000 cars have been known to sell for $10.000. My advice if a seller insists on recouping all their costs at your expense, is to smile and be ready to walk away.

If you want a particular car, but youre afraid it might need more work and money soon, use the checklist in the appendix to get an idea of what those worries may mean when it comes time to deal with them.

Appendix

Helpful Links:

• http://www.albeedigital.com/supercou...icles/vin.html - VIN decoder
• http://www.sccoa.com/ - Super Coupe Club of America
• http://www.35thatr.org/ - All you want to know about the 1990 35th Anniversary Thunderbird Super Coupe.
• http://www.carfax.com/ - CarFax - individual vehicle public records.
• http://www.coolcats.net/mn12/1989.html - Info that applies to both the Cougar XR7 and in many cases, the SC.
• http://www.SuperCoupePerformance.com/ - Buy stuff & feed your new-to-you SC needs.

Contributors:

• Bill Evanoff
• Ira R.
• Mike8675309
• Noob
• Young-SC-Owner

Vehicle Survey Checklist for current condition

E: Excellent G: Good A: Average P: Poor N/A: Not Applicable

Interior E G A P N/A

Front Seats __ __ __ __ __

Rear Seats __ __ __ __ __

Carpet __ __ __ __ __

Headliner __ __ __ __ __

Dash __ __ __ __ __

Electronics __ __ __ __ __

Mechanicals E G A P N/A

Engine __ __ __ __ __

Transmission __ __ __ __ __

Exhaust System __ __ __ __ __

Tires __ __ __ __ __

Brakes __ __ __ __ __

Steering __ __ __ __ __

Air Conditioning __ __ __ __ __

Exterior E G A P N/A

Paint __ __ __ __ __

Hood __ __ __ __ __

Right Front Fender __ __ __ __ __

Left Front Fender __ __ __ __ __

Right Doors __ __ __ __ __

Left Doors __ __ __ __ __

Right Rear 1/4 __ __ __ __ __

Left Rear 1/4 __ __ __ __ __

Trunk Lid __ __ __ __ __

Front Bumper __ __ __ __ __

Rear Bumper __ __ __ __ __

Grille __ __ __ __ __

Glass __ __ __ __ __

Frame __ __ __ __ __